Pancake Boulder
The Pancake Boulder. Pancake Arete, a Seven Falls
classic is on the right near the tree.
This is the first boulder that Andrew Barco and
I found at Seven Falls. He said that it looks like a stack of pancakes.
It is pegmatite with Na and K feldspar and quartz crystals with sheets
of Haddam gneiss on the the top. To those less inclined to geology, this
means that it has face holds on the lower part part and slopy top outs.
The pacncake boulder is probably the most climbed boulder at Seven Falls,
or Bible rock, which isn't saying much. It is the best for a nice warm
up. It's relatively close to the car also.
Directions:
From the Seven Falls Parking Area: From
the parking area on Saybrook Rd, Rt 154, walk North West up Saybrook Road,
towards Middletown, or up stream. Just after the end of the parking area,
after Bible Rock Brook goes under the road, take the trail on the right
into the woods. Walk in and make your way around the fallen tree and onto
the blue trail leading to the left, (Northish-Westish) Take the trail up
hill across the powerline cut, the blue trail joins the powerline trail
for fifty feet up the hill. From the powerline, you can see the powerline
area across the valley, that gives the map some real world scale.
The pancake Boulder is in the woods right on the trail after it crosses
the powerline cut.
Pancake Boulder **
This
boulder is real fun, mostly easy problems, but a few projects too. A WMC
special which is great for new boulderers.
Problems:
1) Unnamed, E, *
Good warm up.
2) Unnamed, E, *
Climb
through small roof and up arete.
3) Low Traverse, M
Traverse
staying above low roof and below #2's roof. Try the underclings only contrivance
also.
3) Unnamed, M Climb
out through low roof.
4) Pancake Arete, M,
** Sit start and climb up overhanging arete
and top out. Nice moves.
5) Slapjack Traverse, H,
** Traverse right to left, from jugs at the
tree around the pancake arete, stay off the large horizontal.
6) Unnamed project, sit start.